Did you know that a woman held off the Confederate cavalry and helped determine the outcome of the battle at Gettysburg? How would you like to view the final resting place of two modern American writers? What about a cast iron storefront, a doctors office from 1852, the Underground Railroad, the vote for independence from England, camp grounds from the French and Indian War, prelude to Brown v Board of Education? Well then Rockville, MD is the place for your next day trip.
Located just north of the DC Beltway and East of I-270 as well as being a stop on the Metro Red Line Rockville is convenient to auto and commuter travel. Parking is plentiful and the Metro stop is along the walking tour. Couple this with an abundance of locations to shop at, eat in, and just see there really is no reason to pass this trip up.
While Francis Scott Key was born in Carroll County one of his better know decedents, Francis Scott Key Fitzgerald, is buried at Old St. Mary’s Church in Rockville with his wife Zelda. Zelda? Yes, I am talking about F. Scott Fitzgerald and Zelda Sayre. Theirs is an easy to find, large marker, with an inscription from The Great Gatsby. It is also normally adorned with miniature liquor bottles left by readers of all ages.
St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church is located at the corner of Veirs Mill Rd. and the Rockville Pike, just a short walk from the Rockville Metro Station. I really enjoyed the old country feel it exudes both outside and within. You can visualize the townspeople and Irish immigrant canal workers who attended services in the 1800’s and feel the calm spirituality they must have experienced at Mass, first communions, confirmations, and funerals.
Just behind the Church is the newest stage of the historic renovation. Narrow tree lined streets, a Victorian-Gothic railroad station, and the brick cast-iron Wire hardware store. Actually they give you more the feel of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
A few blocks away is the courthouse area, the center of town. It was here in taverns that now are no more than a memory where townspeople discussed such mundane issues as zoning and street construction but on occasion debated independence from England, slavery, and the rights of the individual. One building still remains and rings with the legal arguments of Thurgood Marshall as he represented William Gibbs. Gibbs was an African-American teacher who was being paid much less, about 57%, than Caucasian teachers were paid. This was one of Marshall’s first cases involving disparities in education and helped steer him to the historic Brown v Board of Education of Topeka case of 1954 which overturned the “separate but equal” doctrine of that guided the nation after 1896.
Almost 200 years earlier, while Rockville was no more than a crossroads called Owen’s Ordinary, British General Edward Braddock and his troops camped on the grounds around the present day courthouse. They were about to meet with George Washington and Benjamin Franklin to discuss tactics to be used in the French and Indian War. You can see the plaque commemorating this on Maryland Ave. near the old courthouse.
Need some coffee or a little brunch. Head over to the town center two blocks away and you will find many establishments for a quick morsel or a meal. I would like to recommend one or two but I have tried them all believe your random selection will be just fine. You can eat inside or outside depending on your pleasure and the weather, which is almost always great.
Maryland was a Border state during the Civil War and residents of Rockville were split between their allegiance to the Union and Confederate sides. In June of 1863 J.E.B. Stuart brought his cavalry here to acquire supplies for the Army of Northern Virginia which was marching north to Pennsylvania and capture northern sympathizers who could be traded for more goods and money. Dora Higgins was hiding an injured 17 year old Union soldier in her home a few blocks from the town center, while her husband was trying to escape capture by taking sanctuary in a nearby church. Her neighbor, George Peter joined her though he was in fact a Southern sympathizer. Together they held off the invaders for hours until Stuart himself arrived. The two neighbors demanded that the troops leave enough supplies so residents could survive and release the prisoners who had already been arrested. When Stuart realized that he was alienating people who supported the South ordered his men to take only what was needed and release all prisoners outside of town. They then captured a 125 wagon Union supply train north of the city which slowed their progress enough to take them out of the first two days of the Battle of Gettysburg. Many believe this delay possibly cost General Lee a victory on Northern soil. The Higgins’ House still stands at the corner of West Middle and North Adams.
The Beall-Dawson home stands virtually across the street. It dates back to 1815 and is now open to the public as a museum. The exhibits are updated often and show how the residents lived in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is well worth your time to stop in. Outside is the Stonestreet Museaum of 19th Century Medicine. This is an actual former doctor’s office that has been moved to the property and contains artifacts depicting the life of a country doctor in the 1800’s. This was an exciting time when the practice of medicine saw tremendous advances.
Continue your walk to Jefferson St. and all along the four lane road you will find plaques telling the stories of the Underground Railroad, runaway slaves, and schools that reflect the life and turmoil of Rockville, similar to many other areas but often untold. A little further, on Vinson St. you can take a look at Christ Episcopal Church where residents sought sanctuary from J.E.B. Stuart and later Jubal Early. Sanctuary that was denied for hours. Early was on his way to attack Washington, DC but turned back at the outskirts of the Capital.
An internet search will reveal even more locations for your entertainment and education. Take a look and plan your next day trip in the Montgomery county seat, Rockville, MD.
